Should we eat meat

Should We Eat Meat?

The answer is Yes of course and here is why

As the debate, inevitably, ranges over the should we shouldn't we eat meat, the argument has merit on both sides, dependent on which side of the fence you are. 

For me this debate has a simple but not simplistic answer:

  "eat less and eat better". 

For this you need to be able to evaluate what is better? 
Better for me means free ranging animals, extensively reared and grass fed on traditional pastures, which will also look after the health of the soil. Native or primitive breeds will have less environmental impact in many ways.  We definitely need to grasp the thorny issue of food waste, as the figures bandied around are thirty percent of all food produced is wasted in the UK.

 'Pigidea'  

Pigs and, to some extent poultry, can be fed on our food waste. As nobody, least of all me, wants to risk another foot and mouth outbreak, as it happend back in 2001, this can be easily overcome by the political will to control the cooking and sterilizing of food waste in a centralized manner.
The evidence is, to some extent, irrefutable that consumption in the western economies needs to be massively reduced. Amongst many of the reasons for the increase of consumption is obviously price.
Here is some evidence of the fact that meat is too cheap.

copies from my Grandads butchers buying book, 26 Feb 1962

Here goes the statistical bit and there is the saying that "there are lies, dammed lies and statistics". Working out the price of five pigs at £52-12-3 in old money, this translates to app £10.45 per pig in today's money.

Average earnings in early 1962 were app £832.00 per annum. Average earnings in early 2014 were app £24,856.00 per annum, which is nearly a multiple of 30. So from this our pig should be £310.00 ish. And today the price for one pig is about £170.00.
It is also necessary to understand the different eating qualities, as it is not only about cost. The pig of 1962 would have had more fat and less meat to bone ratio. It would have had far better eating quality though, than today's commercially produced ones. This would be especially true, if it had been given a viaried diet, that might have included food waste (swill). This pig would have come from more traditional breed than today's hybrids.
The 1962 pig would have had a minimal carbon foot print compared to today's intensively reared cereal fed animals.
Why is the pig £140 cheaper? 
This has many reasons. Some are relating to intensification, change of diet, bigger litters, breed hybridization and much much more.
Even at a £170.00 there is a lot more expense now, in slaughtering and processing a pig, than there was in 1962. This is due to a massive increases in facility costs, inspection and audit, and the  regulatory requirements placed on farmers, abattoirs and cutting plants.

 'Meat is too cheap'

So the result, in my opinion, of all the debate is that yes we should eat meat. It is obviously better to have ruminants reared on non arable land, where no cereal can viably be grown.

One of the examples I would use are Herdwick sheep, which have a very low carbon foot print and are raised on land that most definitely wouldn't grow any cereals.

 

Terra Madre

Terra Madre is a network of food communities, which are groups of small-scale food producers committed to producing quality food in a responsible, sustainable way. There are more than 2,000 Terra Madre food communities around the world.

The First Terra Madre was in 2004 in a massive former production hall in the Fiat factory in Turin. For a Cumbrian meet food and farming insider and a straight forward country guy this was a massive thing. I didn't realise just how massive until I attended. In any other circles this would have been a confrence.

And oh, what a confrence! I had an opportunity to see and speak to some of the attendees as different and diverse as Eritrean goat farmers to Andean lama farmers to Polish mountain sheep farmers, all in their traditional costumes.

What struck me, amongst thousands of other things, was that these people (possibly for the first time) could feel that they were important producers; a collective of like minded people they had some thing in common with massively different but important strands of similarity.

All the way from the Andies

Attending the first ever Terra Madre was memorable for many things but mostly as there was a biggish British Pavillion of producers including me with air dried Herdwick mutton and Herdwick Mutton Salami, Peter Gott with his wild boar farmed in Cumbria, Denhay farm, scotch blackface to name but a few. On a personal level my wife gave birth to our first child ZOSIA, whilst I was away.

 Zosia

So moving forward to the next Terra Madre, in 2006. It was the turn of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. By this time I was deeply involved with Mutton. When I look at that written down, it looks a little odd (not in the New Zealand/Welsh way). When was I ever not involved with the mutton? Particulaly Herdwick mutton, it's sale and general promotion. His Royal Highness's opening speach at Terra Madre was, as I have since come to expect from His Royal Highness, an emotional, passionate and intelegent speach about the small familly unit producing food, which we in England know as a familly farm. Oh boy what a day!

His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, Farmer Sharp and Peter Gott 

 

Whilst an exhibitor at Salone I was attempting to sell English charcuterie to the ultimate market, Italy home of the famous Culatello, Parma Ham and most interesting to me Violino di Capra.

violino di capra

consortium of producers of Parma Ham

My Stand at Salone del Gusto, British Pavillion

 And so I am proud to have been appointed a British representative at Terra madre 2014

Lamb pluck  

The Offal

There is more and more talk about the fith quarter which in lay man's terms means Offal. I know I have blogged about this before but but for fear of repeating myself, which my Nana always said was the ony way to get anything through, here is more on Offal.

Lamb Pluck First get your pluck

Untrimmed Lamb Pluck or Offal

When you  think about cost, a pluck will cost about £3.00 ish. Ask your butcher, he will be impressed that you even know what it is called. The next stage is to let your kids have a look. They will only be grossed out for a millisecond, then they will want to touch and get involved. Radek did, as you will see on the pic below. What a great way to start anatomy lessons and involve them in eating other foods.

Start the cutting by removing the liver trimming, the white cologen where it was attached to the diaphram. Then remove the white looking pipes etc from the inside. If you cant see them you have it the wrong way up.

Cut of the heart just above the fat.

Seperate the two lung lobes, trim out the pipes by just cutting each lobe into four pices and cut out the pipes as best as you can. It doesn't matter if you don't get them all.

Pluck Trimmed 

The trimmed bits of the pluck: liver, heart, lung, heart, sweet bread, diaphram or skirt can all be used separately. Although everything can be minced to make a kind of faggot. When I was a child growing up in lower Furness I knew them as child savory duck, which sounds much better.

The trimmed components of the pluck are also some of the proper constituents of haggis, along with oats, fat and spleen.

 

Recipe from my 1904 Douglas's Encyclopaedia of meat  

ancient-haggis recipe not that different 

This haggis recipe could be done with this style of recipe although might need a bit of modernising and some oatmeal and suet fat, preferebly lamb or even better mutton suet fat.

Liver and Sliced ready for cooking

So to the sliced Liver and heart. We all had the heart and liver cooked medium rare, on a flat cast iron griddle, just coated in seasoned flour. And it was fantastic. The heart is like a good lamb steak. The remainder of the pluck is going to make the haggis.

"it just smells like meat Dad"

"Feels a bit wierd though"

And here is the finished article. Complete with nettle garnish and polenta.

Nettle garnish because there is nettle in the recipe. I have put the link in above for the recipe I used here.

My new web site. Take a look let me know what you think?

Three Bird Roast

The plan for the three bird roast demo last thursday evening at the School of Artisan food was to use a small five kilo bronze free- range turkey, a two kilo free- range chicken and a three kilo free- range duck.

I got the train from King's Cross in the morning thinking all good but in passing on the phone, I had said that maybe I could do a second three bird roast if the game keeper had any birds about. I got to the Welbeck Estate where I checked in and thought I would have look at the birds, but going into the butchery room, I was confronted by some mallard ducks, a red legged Partridge and some pheasants. 

All good with that so far except I also had to pluck them so they could get into the oven and as the mallards were in place of the commercial duck there was a lot to do as I probably haven't plucked mallards since I was twenty (and I would like to say that twenty was only a few years ago but it’s more like thirty than five).

With some help from the lovely Lee-Anna, we got them all done in double quick time as they were still warm, and then rushed the two different roasts to the refectory kitchen as they had to be cooked for 8 o'clock. They were then stuffed and made ready for the oven. 

The stuffing was made for me by Gill in the refectory kitchen, with my instruction of no bread, cous-cous or anything like that as bread based stuffings absorb moisture and can make the birds dryer. If ewe want to have something like sage and onion stuffing, roast it in a separate tray a little on the side before your three bird roast is done.

Watch out for the video after xmas!

The noble, unmistakable and not-so-humble truffle

Those people who have had a meal scented with their pungent flavour will understand my excitement in anticipation of the new season. Whether in a risotto or with a duck egg, that unmistakable truffle flavour is indescribably fantastic.

The truffle is indicative of the whole seasonality of food and the pleasures one can derive from a new season product like truffle or asparagus.  Growing within the seasons (if maybe extending them a bit with modern methods like polytunnels) is recommended, as frankly this is the more sustainable system.

The truffle is a poster boy for two of the most blatantly political arguments, sustainability and seasonality, and, the not- so- humble truffle will if over used, not be there the next time we look for it - in my opinion, the perfect analogy for sustainability vs extinction.

Radio Sharpie - Passionate about pheasant

Roadkill recipe

My friend the egg man sent me a message recently saying that he’d knocked over a hare and did I want it.... erm, yes!

I was pleased to receive this fully grown leveret, really quite a young animal that wasn’t very strong (in flavour) as I’m personally not overkeen on extremely strong hare....

I kept it for a couple of days in the fridge then dressed it (gutted and skinned it), but was undecided on how to cook it..... 

I chopped it into joints and thought that maybe curry might be an idea and after looking up an American recipe which had all these multitude of spices in it (half of which I didn't have), thought I would just make it up as I went along...

So, 

• pan fried the hare, browned it and put it to one side, 
• fried some onions, some garlic, some ginger and whatever spices we had in cupboard in it’s juices, 
• braised it for not very long (about 1.5 to 2 hours) and in the end, it turned out to be quite tender.....

Young Farmer Sharp (Michael), along with his non-foodie mate (who thought it was a curried chicken), and even my little girl who doesn’t eat curry or spicy food ate it all up....my little lad Radek also ate lots of it and was very pleased even though he doesn’t really like spicy food either.....

All in all, roadkill can be quite good. To some extent, it is food waste and potentially wasted food,  so as long as you are sure where it came from and of the healthiness of the meat (i.e. that it’s not been on the road side for days and contaminated), if you’ve knocked something over by accident then why not turn it into an economically viable and bloody good meal?  Me and the entire family actually enjoyed it much more the day after too!